Australia's regional classics: shiraz, cabernet, chardonnay, riesling, semillon, pinot noir
Seminar 1: Presented by Michael Hill Smith MW
Edward Ragg
Edward Ragg, Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting [©Redfish Bluefish Creative]
Michael Hill Smith, Master of Wine and veteran of cult Adelaide Hills producer Shaw + Smith, was more than well-placed to provide a picture of the diversity of Australia’s fine table wines.
Among an obviously impressive line-up of wines, the more controversial example here proved to be the 2007 Glaetzer Amon-Ra, Lisa Perotti-Brown MW worrying that its acidity was not in balance with the rest of the wine. Whilst balance for the long-term could be a concern, I found this wine to be very much on the young side, no doubt one that would be easier to assess in the long-term.
Wines of undeniable balance, but again very much in the early phases of their evolutions were the 2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling and 2006 Balnaves of Coonawarra The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon as well as the majority of the above shiraz wines, all classics: the trio of 2006 Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz, 2007 Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz, 2006 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz was superb.
Showing more development was the predictably excellent 1998 Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley being the home of the most complex (usually unoaked) semillon in the world with notoriously great ageing capability (as we saw later in the week in the semillon session).
For those of us in the group already familiar with some of Australia’s top wines, this seminar was more a source of confirmation as to the spread and levels of Australian fine wine rather than a revelation as such. But a number of participants were especially struck by the evocative nature of the whites on show, not least the aforementioned Grosset’s Polish Hill Riesling and Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon as well as the finesse of the above chardonnays.
One participant, privately however, expressed concern that some of the chardonnays, especially the 2009 Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay, was so delicate that some of its nominal ‘Australian character’ could be said to have been lost (outside the seminar, the comment, ‘if I want to buy white Burgundy, I’ll buy white Burgundy’ was in the air). But in the case of white Burgundy, caveat emptor (buyer beware). If Australia could be faulted for having a crisis of confidence in the case of chardonnay – i.e. that imitating Burgundy’s best is now the alleged problem – then at least quality control is such that you won’t find expensive bottles of dreadful wine on the market; which is still a frequent problem with the likes of Burgundy and those who remember the over-use of lees-stirring on 1996 white Burgundy will recall what premature oxidation on chardonnay in bottle means.
The issue of whether Australia’s chardonnays were too much in love with the better Old World expressions of the grape arose again during the chardonnay seminar led by Steve Webber of De Bortoli, although was formulated in slightly different terms. Personally, I believe that the world of chardonnay styles, not least in premium wines, is sufficiently broad, both internationally and, critically, within Australia, that there is something for everyone in that captivating mix. Moreover, it seems rather uncharitable to take Australia to task for producing mostly reliable commercial wines whilst also criticizing its premium producers for allegedly conforming with (nominal) Old World elegance. These are, I would suggest, somewhat simplified terms for approaching the world of wine.
However, there remains the nagging point that fine wine lovers usually look for marks of differentiation between wines and it won’t do for Australia to let itself be caught between two stools. In other words, the greatest Australian wines will have to be true to their sense of place as well as embracing the very best vinification methods in a holistic sense. Fortunately, this is already occurring and in the case of some Australian producers has been the goal for some time.
Tasting Notes
- 2009 Grosset Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley
- 2002 Pewsey Vale The Contours Riesling, Eden Valley
- 1998 Tyrrell's Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley
- 2006 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River
- 2009 Shaw + Smith M3 Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills
- 2007 By Farr Sangreal Pinot Noir, Geelong
- 2007 Cape Mentelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River
- 2006 Balnaves of Coonawarra The Tally Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
- 2008 S.C. Pannell Shiraz/Grenache, McLaren Vale
- 2006 Brokenwood Graveyard Shiraz
- 2007 Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz
- 2006 Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz
- 2007 Glaetzer Amon-Ra Shiraz, Barossa Valley
- 2007 De Bortoli Noble One Semillon, Riverina
This article was originally published on Enobytes.com
This is the third instalment of a 14-part series in which Edward Ragg provides an in-depth Inreview of last year’s Landmark Tutorial, a showcase of Australia’s finest wines. Co-founder, with Fongyee Walker, of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting based in Beijing, Ragg has also produced detailed tasting notes on all 185 of the wines tasted in the Landmark seminars on Adegga.
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