Serendip: My Sri Lankan Kitchen – Peter Kuruvita

A tropical culinary journey you won't want to miss

Robyn Lewis
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Serendip - Peter Kuruvita: My Sri Lankan Kitchen

Serendip - Peter Kuruvita: My Sri Lankan Kitchen [©Murdoch Books]

 

Apart from loving good food and cooking – and sharing it – another reason we enjoy cookbooks is that they can evoke a wonderful sense of place.

From Noosa to New York, pick up a local recipe book and you are immediately THERE – smelling the spice markets of Nairobi, feeling the salt wind off the sea in Cornwall, taking in the colour and sounds of the markets from Siena to Melbourne – wherever you have been, cookbooks can capture far more than digital images. Not to mention the joy of recreating it when you get home.

Serendip is as much a travel as a recipe book. From its evocative cover – part rainforest scene, part culinary collage, which unfolds into a wonderful surprise – Serendip transports you at once to the humid tropics of Sri Lanka, home of tea, spices, exotic fruit and much, much more.

Serendip derives its name from serendib, the old Arabic or Persian word for this venerable island - meaning 'accidental chance'. It takes us on a rich and rewarding journey through the traditional cuisine of Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), its culture of family and ceremony, and the colourful approach to life on this beautiful island. Acclaimed chef Peter Kuruvita from Flying Fish restaurant in Sydney reaches deep into the kitchen experiences he has had with his aunts and grandmother, and the local markets, food hawkers and stalls, to bring us this extensive and truly evocative collection of Sri Lankan recipes and stories.

Presenting recipes for Sri Lankan curries of every kind, traditional snacks, breads, sweets, chutneys, sambals and pickles, Serendip is a treasury of delicious meals and morsels that will tempt the most jaded palate. Peter’s brother Philip Kuruvita along with acclaimed photographer Alan Benson contributed both the stunning location shots and mouthwatering food images. Serendip is truly a visual feast.

As with most Asian countries, regional culinary variations can occur from village to village, over as little distance as 10 km, and many of these plus religious and cultural variations are included, such as Tamil thosais and Muslim buriani. Indeed every family has its own cooking traditions which are preserved and handed on like treasured silverware.

Kuruvita comments: ‘One of the beautiful things about all Sri Lankans and their food is that they can rarely agree on the details of any recipe. Most and handed down through generations and each has its own very special preparation method and flavour.’

The recipes start with the basic variants of curry powders – so often omitted from westernised curry cookbooks – meat, fish, vegetable. Master these and you are well on your way. Spice it up with some sambals and pickles, achars and chutneys and you are ready to begin your own culinary journey, starting with kiri hoddy, the ‘beginner’s curry’ through to wild boar and seafood curries with all the delicious complexity of a Nonya feast. Some even capture Peter’s grandmother’s Ayurvedic healing knowledge.

Indeed Serendip is intensely personal, at once a chronicle of a culinary life as a travelogue that will have most readers hankering not just for a visit to Flying Fish restaurant but to Sri Lanka itself.

This is one of the most lovely – but still practical – cookbooks to cross our threshold for some time, and will surely be a hit from London to Australia. It is a great credit to all concerned, reflecting the generosity of the author in sharing his recipes through to the unerring eye and dedication of the publishers, Murdoch Books.

I sincerely wish that Australia had more books like this on its own evolving regional cuisines, books that capture the flavours and essence of people and place, in addition to the ubiquitous titles that focus on the style of a celebrity or master chef, or those that feature ‘west coast USA’ recipes that really could be from anywhere.

 

Serendip by Peter Kuruvita is published by Murdoch Books, Sydney (April 2009; RRP A$59.95). Suscribers of VisitVineyards.com and Winepros Archive can purchase Serendip at 12.5% discount via our book partners Seekbooks (postage extra).

Reprinted in paperback 2011, RRP A$49.95.
 

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July 18th, 2009
 

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