Recipe: Lobster cioppino
A recipe and wine match from Daring pairings by Evan Goldstein
Lobster Cioppino – Daring Pairings
A regional fish stew made from the catch of the day, cioppino is said to have been developed by Italian fishermen who settled in San Francisco in the 1800s. The name can be traced to the stories of wharf cooks calling out in their heavy Italian accents for everyone to 'chip in' some of their catch to the communal soup pot.
Lobster, with its rich texture, is a natural pairing with roussanne, and this rendition of cioppino is given a decidedly New England accent with the inclusion of the beautiful Maine lobster, which is cooked in a fragrant broth with shrimp and scallops. Unlike the traditional San Francisco versions that are based on tomatoes and soft heat, both of which could hurt the roussanne, this interpretation accentuates the seafood.
If your clams are very salty, you may want to limit them, as too much salt can spike the wine’s alcohol and diminish the fruit. Lots of crusty bread and rouille provide a textural backdrop for the wine. The rouille is also mixed directly into the broth, as in a bouillabaisse, to add richness, which works well for the wine. The bread allows for a slightly oak-aged version of the wine.
Roussanne, an underappreciated grape variety, has a minerally, layered character. This style blends well with the natural mineral flavors of the shellfish. The addition of the rouille really balances out the broth and offers a touch of creaminess that aids the pairing.
Lobster Cioppino
Richard Vellante – Legal Sea Foods, Boston, Massachusetts
Makes 4 to 6 main-course servings
BROTH
1 celery stalk, finely diced
1 carrot, peeled and finely diced
Half a yellow onion, finely diced
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 clove garlic, minced
1 cup diced canned tomatoes with juice
1 cup bottled clam broth
2 cups chicken stock
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
ROUILLE
Half a cup chopped roasted red bell pepper
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1 teaspoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Half a teaspoon paprika
Three-quarters of a cup mayonnaise
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
8 littleneck clams, scrubbed
1 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded
1 cup roussanne or other dry white wine
2 (one and a half pound) live lobsters
4 sea scallops
8 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons fresh basil leaves, torn into pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Coarse country bread for serving
To make the broth, in a heavy saucepan, combine the celery, carrot, onion, and olive oil over low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, clam broth, and chicken stock, bring to a simmer, and simmer for 5 minutes to blend the flavors. Season with salt and pepper, add the bay leaf and thyme, and simmer for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the heat, and remove and discard the bay leaf. (The broth can be made up to 3 days in advance, covered, and refrigerated.) You should have at least 3 cups broth.
To make the rouille, in a food processor, combine the red pepper, garlic, parsley, lemon juice, and paprika and process until smooth. Add the mayonnaise and continue to process until fully incorporated. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a small bowl, cover, and refrigerate until serving.
In a soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the clams and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the mussels and wine, cover, and cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until the clams and mussels open, 3 to 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the clams and mussels to a bowl, discarding any that failed to open, and cover to keep warm.
Continue to simmer the wine uncovered over medium heat until it is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Add the 3 cups broth and bring to a simmer. Add the lobsters, cover, return the broth to a simmer, and cook just until the lobsters begin to turn red, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the scallops and shrimp and simmer until they are just cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes longer. Stir in the basil and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat.
Remove the lobsters from the pot, and cut each lobster in half lengthwise. Divide the clams and mussels evenly among 4 warmed large soup plates, arranging them around the edge of each bowl. Divide the broth, scallops, and shrimp evenly among the bowls. Place a lobster half in the center of each bowl and serve at once with the bread. Pass the rouille at the table for diners to add to their bowls.
Reproduced with permission of University of California Press © Evan Goldstein 2010
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Daring Pairings by Evan Goldstein is published by University of California Press (Berkeley and LA; 2010; hb 353 pp) and retails for RRP US$34.95 or RRP A$55.95 in Australia.
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