Nagambie, Victoria: Goulburn Terrace

By Michael Harden
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Taste a new red wine at the cellar door

Taste a new red wine at the cellar door

If you want a taste of the new food and wine energy that is beginning to bubble in the Nagambie region, the Goulburn Terrace cellar door is the perfect place to start. Winemakers Greta Moon and Mike Boudry bought the gorgeously rickety general store at the north end of Nagambie’s main drag without knowing what they would do with it; Greta simply liked the look of the empty 1920’s building with its wooden floors and old Bushell’s commercials painted on the windows. It was only after they had bought the old shop that they realised it was the ideal cellar door location for their Goulburn Terrace winery, eight kilometres away on the banks of the Goulburn River.

Initially the shopfront was a fairly straightforward operation where they sold their wine alongside a bit of local produce – organic vegetables and fruit, hand made pickles and preserves, local olive oil – and other gourmet ingredients brought up from Melbourne. But the style of wine they were making – the restrained, savoury Midnight Shiraz, an elegant richly textured chardonnay, a steely, complex cabernet sauvignon – was strongly influenced by their admiration for European wine styles and really shone when it was teamed with food. There was enough room in the shop for a small kitchen, Greta (who, according to Mike “has an immense food knowledge”) was interested in cooking up local ingredients to go with their wine and so they decided to add some more food to their cellar door repertoire.

Goulburn Terrace is not a restaurant but more a shopfront expression of Greta and Mike’s philosophy towards food, wine, hospitality and conviviality. It only opens on weekends and, if Greta and Mike have to be away, it stays closed. There are a couple of wooden tables with mismatched wooden chairs, an old deli fridge full of fresh produce, excellent coffee and tea, homemade sour dough bread and a fridge full of juices and cheese and buckets of stock and olives. It is a good place to go not just because of the convivial atmosphere, great music and delicious cooking, but because Greta and Mike are an incredibly good source of information about everything that is happening in area to do with food and wine.

In some ways, Greta and Mike represent the classic Nagambie area “tree changers”, both representing and driving the changes to the local food and wine culture.

Greta owned Au Go Go records in Melbourne for many years but had always liked wine and the idea of growing grapes. After looking around the state for a site, she bought her riverside property, attracted by the “forgiving” climate and the plentiful water, and planted it with chardonnay and cabernet. Sensing the winds of change in the record buying business, she decided to study wine science and met Mike who was over from London to complete the same course and stay on in Australia to plant grapes and make wine. They teamed up, produced their first vintage in 1999, moved into the area full time in 2000 and fully committed to their winemaking when Greta closed Au Go Go in 2003. Their range of wine continues to expand and reflects their desire to keep things interesting. A sparkling marsanne is on its way and they have just released a viognier and a rousanne alongside their range of shiraz, chardonnay and cabernet. Try Goulburn Terrace wine with a bit of Greta’s food in the old general store and get a glimpse of how the Nagambie region is progressing.

© Michael Harden 2006

First printed in Food and Wine Lovers’ Guide to Melbourne and Surrounds (2006)

Goulburn Terrace, Cellar Door, 340 High Street, Nagambie, Victoria (03) 5794 2828


  • Nagambie Lakes (VIC)

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