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Pemberton Wine Region - Alex Bond

A photographic essay of an emerging Australian wine region

Robyn Lewis

Pemberton Wine Region - Western Australia [©Stormlight Publishing]

Every Australian wine region needs a book like this.

Pemberton Wine Region Western Australia is the first photographic book to be published about this emerging region, which has lived somewhat in the shadow of its near neighbour, the better-known Margaret River.

Both written and illustrated by accomplished photographer and Western Australian native Alex Bond, this premium book showcases the forests, rivers, lakes, coastline and ‘must sees’, plus twelve select vineyards and wineries that contribute to Pemberton’s unique character.

Part coffee-table book, part information source and excellent souvenir, Pemberton Wine Region Western Australia brings this dot in the far south-west corner of the vast map of Australia to life. Most people have heard of Margaret River; it’s an easy day or weekend trip from the metro hub of Perth. But plan a slightly longer trip like we did a few years ago, and continue round the south-west tip and along the southern coastline, and you’ll be very pleasantly surprised.

The south-west of WA is one of the most biodiverse regions of Australia, with an astonishing richness of native plants. One of the most striking features of the Pemberton regions, especially entering it after a drive through more spare bushland with its sentinels of ‘grass trees’, is its towering karri forests.  Karri is a type of gum tree (Eucalyptus diversicolor) and is one of the tallest flowering trees in the world, especially in Pemberton with its high winter rainfall and deep soils, with specimens growing to 80 m tall. The most famous is the Gloucester tree near Pemberton township, which has its own spiral staircase 61 m high, for the adventurous. 

Karri trunks grow straight up with no branching until near the top, and they provide an imposing backdrop to the former timber town of Pemberton, whose existence once depended on logging these giants. Today, the trees are protected and Pemberton is a cute little village in the heart of vegetable farming, cattle and vineyard country, and more than an average percentage of artists, creating a colourful and creative community of which Alex Bond is one. (Until 2008 another was Pemberton’s Botanica Gallery, which showcased the botanical works of local artist Pat Dundas, whose fine creations are still available online). 

Pemberton is a maritime wine region, 350 km south of Perth, SE of Margaret River and with neighbouring Manjimup en route to the of the ‘Great Southern’ wine region. Surrounded by national parks and extending to the sea (Pemberton town is 35 km inland), its cool climate allows for slow grape ripening and flavour development. Chardonnay was the best known grape variety, along with early trials of pinot noir, but now there are now moves towards specialisation in the Bordeaux varieties of sauvignon blanc, merlot and cabernet sauvignon equally or perhaps better suited to the local climate. There are also established plantings of riesling, semillon, viognier, shiraz, zinfandel, malbec, cabernet franc, petit verdot and tempranillo to further tempt wine lovers.

Twelve vineyards are covered by Alex Bond in Pemberton Wine Region Western Australia, and most will be unfamiliar to residents outside WA. Mountford Wines was established in 1987 and was one of the first to achieve certified organic status. Silkwood features a Lakeside Cellar café with views across water to the adjoining Beedelup national park. Bellarmine may well be unique in Australia – not only does it have a lake, but outdoor events which range from yacht races at the ‘Bellarmine Yacht Club’ to Shakespearean performances. There’s lots of water in Pemberton; Hidden River Estate also has a lake, with canoeing, swimming and fishing popular activities. Its cellar door is a streetcar named Desire – a restored Federation tram from the gold town of Kalgoorlie. 

Olde Eastbrook and Pemberley Farms both grow grapes for others; the latter, inspired by their love of Broome in WA’s far north, have introduced a Broome Wine Collection label. The Warren Vineyard was established in 1985 from vine cuttings from the famous Moss Wood, and for those overnighting it also has a B&B. Bond’s photos do them all considerable justice, and if you’ve never visited Pemberton you will want to after browsing through his book.

With a rainfall of 1200 mm pa (48”) – most of which falls in winter – it’s no surprise that lakes and rivers are such a feature, and why the region is such a verdant respite for Perth residents and others tired of drought and dust. Lost Lake also has a Deck Café. Smithbrook takes another tack; most years in October  (not 2009) it hosts the Smithbrook Showjumping Derby, an event which attracts competitors of national standard. The vineyard concentrates on Bordeaux varieties and is implementing wind power as part of its environmental sustainability policy.

Salitage is one name that will be recognised outside its home state – indeed as far afield as Europe, where the wines are exported.  Established in 1988 by John Horgan (brother of Denis at Leeuwin Estate) and his wife Jenny, who brought international experience to their viticulture and winemaking; the name is derived from their four children’s. Salitage cellar door is a must-visit for the region and daily guided tours are offered, and the nearby Salitage Suites provide upmarket self-contained accommodation hidden in the forest.

Truffles have spread across southern Australia like a magic fairy ring – the Wine and Truffle Company is now the largest producer of truffles in the Southern hemisphere. It has 12 ha under vines for its Truffle Hill wine label and 21 ha under oaks and hazelnuts for truffle production. Visitors can join a truffle hunt or sample truffle dishes in their gourmet café. The Wine and Truffle Company is located about 7 km south of neighbouring Manjimup - inclusion in this book is perhaps a sign that the formerly somewhat frosty relationship between the two regions (a mere 35 km apart, with a divide unnoticed by visitors) may have thawed.

Merum Wines – whose name derives from the Latin for pure undiluted wine (back in the days when wine was frequently mixed with water) – is another vineyard (now reportedly closed) with an impressive karri backdrop so ably captured in Alex Bond’s photographs, more of which can be viewed and ordered on his website. Written with feeling, the book’s only omission is the lack of a regional map – it’s hard for outsiders to get a grip on the geography. But that aside the book is lovely, and will certainly help make this emerging region more than a far-flung dot on the Australian wine drinker’s map. 

Stop press Jan 2010 - Judged by an international jury, Pemberton Wine Region has been awarded Best Wine Photography Book in Australia and Best New World Wine Book in Australia as part of the international, 2009 Gourmand Awards. The book represented Australia in the Best in the World Awards in Paris, February, 2010.

Pemberton Wine Region Western Australia is published by Stormlight Publishing (June 2009; hb, RRP A$49.95, plus postage). To purchase photographic prints or to order copies of Pemberton Wine Region Western Australia, please visit Alex Bond’s website www.AlexBond.com.au or email mail@alexbond.com.au

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• Pemberton (WA)

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