By Appointment Only... fortune favours the brave

Sara Schwarz
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Macedon Ranges Wine - Limited Edition postcards

Macedon Ranges Wine - Limited Edition postcards [©Macedon Ranges Vigneron's Association]

 

‘By Appointment Only’. These are daunting words for the uninitiated, reeking of royal privilege and exclusivity of the past. Embrace them however, don’t fear them; fortune favours the brave.

In my line of work I've visit numerous wineries big and small and have enjoyed a diverse range of experiences along the way. Possibly my most surprising and pleasant cellar door experience in recent years was at a small ‘by appointment only’ winery in Victoria’s Macedon Ranges. 

Upon our phone enquiry, the owner, a busy man with his finger in many a pie, was delighted to hear from us and immediately set aside half an hour that afternoon to take us through his wines. Two hours and numerous tastings later we emerged blinking into the sunlight from his dusty makeshift cellar door, clutching our parting gift - a perfectly cellared 15 year old bottle of his pinot noir and an invitation to lend a hand during the harvest next vintage.

Over the course of the afternoon our host had generously guided us through the history of his property and the surrounding region, an exquisite bottle of his sparkling, some wonderful eight, nine and ten year old chardonnays, along with numerous dusty unlabelled pinot noirs, shiraz and cabernets. Quite an afternoon.

While we can’t guarantee all ‘by appointment’ experiences will be so amply rewarded, if you are genuinely interested in a winery, region or specific variety, then chances are the winery would be delighted to hear from you and to host your visit.

It’s not you…

Cellar doors operate ‘by appointment only’ for a number of reasons:

  • Firstly, vineyards and wineries are busy places. In between spraying, pruning and harvesting, the demands of the winery and the taxman, there simply isn’t the time to run a cellar door, even on weekends.
  • Secondly, while offering liquid riches, the wine industry isn’t renown for turning paupers to princes(ses). Often your winemaker is also a teacher, lawyer, labourer or farmer who dedicates their precious weekend and evening hours to the fruits of the vine.
  • Running on a tight budget means extra staff is a luxury reserved for special events. Day to day, owner/operators would need to run their own cellar doors at the expense of not completing other tasks.
  • Finally, a winery who produces only minute amounts of wine each year would easily use up their entire stock in cellar door tastings, resulting in some very happy travellers however with no profit to re-invest for further wine production.

All these negatives however are actually positive for us. Those who take the initiative to make a call are generally guaranteed a warm welcome and the winemaker’s undivided attention with the opportunity to experience some little known hand-crafted wines.

So be brave this year. You never know, you may just find yourself with some wonderful new friends, working side-by-side in their vineyard next vintage.

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March 11th, 2010
 

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