The New Australian 250 - cool pinot and hot shiraz
Jancis Robinson
In the next set of VisitVineyards.com monthly tasting notes from wine diva Jancis Robinson, she is impressed with the pinot noirs from Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley, whose other claim to fame is having Jamie Oliver's wine man, Matt Skinner, on staff. Barossa shiraz is a stand-out with beautifully structured deep reds from Ben Glaetzer.
The majority of these notes were taken at the Australia Day tasting at the Emirates Arsenal stadium in London in 2008, but they are supplemented by notes on the more distinctive Australian wines tasted over the last few months.
Fox Gordon, Abby Viognier 2007 Adelaide Hills
14.5
Drink 2009
Reduced nose. A bit too tight and possibly picked before much flavour had developed. Dull at present.
Fox Gordon, Eight Uncles Shiraz 2005 Barossa Valley
15
Drink 2008
Tight and tart with a vague hint of molasses.
Fox Gordon, By George Cabernet/Tempranillo 2005 Barossa Valley/Adelaide Hills
15.5
Drink 2008-09
Sweet beguiling start and then some leafiness. Interesting example of Australian blending flexibility and creativity.
Fox Gordon, King Louis Cabernet 2005 Barossa Valley
16
Drink 2006-09
Very sweet start and then a certain tarriness gives it bite. Not cheap though.
Fox Gordon, Hannah’s Swing Shiraz 2006 Barossa Valley
15.5
Drink 2009-12
Too expensive - no! say my decidedly unhelpful notes. My apologies.
Giant Steps, Sexton Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 Yarra Valley
16.5+
Drink 2008-11
From a vineyard even cooler than Tarraford, Giant Steps is a Yarra Valley Cool Victorian vineyard with fruit vinified by Alison and Phil Sexton, ex Devil’s Lair in Margaret River. I didn’t have time to taste the Chardonnays alas. This is where ‘Jamie Oliver’s wine man’ Matt Skinner is now working three days a week. This has lovely fresh, crunchy fruit on the nose. Light touch and very delicate. Difficult to guess as Australian blind, I would think. Just a slightly sour note on the finish stops me giving this a higher score.
Giant Steps, Tarraford Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 Yarra Valley
16
Drink 2008-11
The fruit seems slightly stewed here. Notes of coffee and very sweet fruit – less pure flavours than the Sexton vineyard. 12.8%
Giant Steps, Millers Vineyard Shiraz 2005 Yarra Valley
17
Drink 2008-12
Dark crimson but very ‘cool’, restrained flavours - definitely more northern Rhône than Barossa. Full, round, well balanced, great work on the palate texture. Tingly and vivacious with an attractively savoury finish. 13%
Gibson’s Barossa Vale Shiraz 2004 Barossa Valley
17
Drink 2007-11
Tar and spicebox aromas on top of an impressive amount of fruit, made by viticulturist Rob Gibson, who discovered where all the worthwhile bodies were buried while working for Penfolds on maximising both quality and yields, and imbuing ‘dramatic tension’ into wines by withholding water. A very satisfying whole. 14.5%
Gibson’s Barossa Vale GSM 2005 Barossa Valley
16
Drink 2009-12
Blend of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvèdre. Warm, and rich with a pretty firm finish still and rather obvious acidity. Not as mellow as the 2004 Shiraz. 14.5%
Ben Glaetzer, Wallace Shiraz/Grenache 2006 Barossa Valley
17
Drink 2008-10
From the Ebenezer subregion of Barossa. Bright, purplish black cherry. Intense and aromatic black and red fruit on the nose, with just a hint of mocha. Deliciously restrained, spicy freshness that lifts the fresh tangy dark fruit. Very fluid and palate-cleansing. Tight, ripe fresh tannins. Wonderfully drinkable, with surprising lightness of touch, the high alcohol barely noticeable. Long fresh finish. Screwcap. 14.5%
Ben Glaetzer, Bishop Shiraz 2006 Barossa Valley
17
Drink 2008-11
Based on dry-grown fruit from the Ebenezer vineyard. Aged in French and US oak. Deep ripe cherry colour. Some herbal, menthol notes over pure cassis. Minty cassis on the palate too, and a touch of vanilla. But there’s a restrained power that suggests the concentration of old vines not the concentration of winemaking. Tannins are firm, giving freshness, and there’s a strong impression of dark, spiced chocolate. The 14.5% seems to show more than on the Wallace, though they are analytically the same. Long and powerful and contained.
Ben Glaetzer, Anaperenna Shiraz/Cabernet 2006 Barossa Valley
18
Drink 2009-14
Unfiltered. 25% Cabernet because it was so good in 2006. Deep but limpid black cherry colour. Initially rather buttoned up on the nose as if it needs time to breathe. But there’s the beginnings of very pure cassis and also cedary oak notes. Amazingly, considering the blend, there’s even a hint of strawberries but also tobacco and vanilla – very complex even though it needs time for the aromas to blossom. This is classy stuff. Rich in fruit, firm in structure, but so fluent across the palate. The finish is full of rich spice but all this complexity and character is so beautifully confined by freshness, even at 14.5%. First release under the new name.
Ben Glaetzer, AMON-Ra Unfiltered Shiraz 2006 Barossa Valley
18.5+
Drink 2009-16
Deep rich crushed blackcurrant colour. Highly perfumed with notes of violets, vanilla, sweet black cherry and peppery spice, but all so intermingled they are hard to separate. This wine is persuasive on the nose – you cannot resist putting it in your mou th once you have breathed it in. And once it is in your mouth, impossible to spit. This is what I call top-of-the range Australian Shiraz. Bursting with dark fruit and yet so well structured and beautifully focused. Savoury dark chocolate tannins, not yet melting but so wonderfully ripe and wth just the right amount of grip to be able to hold the intensely aromatic fruit. Lingering with the same freshness that characterises all these wines. A class apart. 14.5%
Greenock Creek, Alice’s Shiraz 2001 Barossa Valley
16.5
Drink 2006-10
Intense warmth on the nose. Lots of dusty fruit and alcohol on the palate. Tarry but quite rich and well balanced. Just about the right time to drink this. 15%
Greenstone Shiraz 2006 Heathcote
17.5
Drink 2009-12
A joint venture between Italian consultant Alberto Antonini, viticulturist Mark Walpole and Liberty’s David Gleave. Lovely dark, savoury, meaty nose with a clear mineral note under all that savoury dark fruit and a freshness on the finish. Finesse and a nod to the northern Rhône. 14%
Hamelin Bay, Rampant White 2007 Margaret River
16.5
Drink 2008-09
58% Semillon, 26% Sauvignon Blanc, 16% Chardonnay. 5% barrel fermented and aged just to give a bit more weight and texture. Grassy, green pea Sauvignon dominated nose with greater complexity on the palate. Also citrus and stone fruits. Refreshing and bright with good concentration. Easy but far from simple. Great name! 12.6%
Hamelin Bay, Five Ashes Chardonnay 2006 Margaret River
17
Drink 20
Located at Karridale, next to Stella Bella, just a few miles from the ocean. Five Ashes vineyard is 63 acres (25 ha) on well-drained gravelly north-facing slopes, to catch the most of the sun in this very cool spot.Well structured, classy oak, upright and serious. On a burgundian theme. 13%
Hamelin Bay, Five Ashes Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Margaret River
16.5+
Drink 2008-09
10% barrel fermented. Minerally and tangy citrus - clearly from a cool climate but in no way green. Structured and mouthwatering. 13%
Hamelin Bay, Rampant Red 2005 Margaret River
16.5+
Drink 2008-10
64% Shiraz, 21% Cabernet, 15% Merlot. Aged in mainly older barriques so there’s very little oak influence. Spice dark fruit, a leafy edge and aromatic mid palate. Very well balanced, subtle and long but with plenty of lively fruit. Good stuff. 13.7%
Hamelin Bay, Five Ashes Shiraz 2003 Margaret River
17
Drink 2007-10
Spicy, peppery and a little bit leafy, then a savoury clarity on the palate. A minty note, good length and shows its Margaret River origins in the bright acidity. 14%
Hamelin Bay, Five Ashes Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Margaret River
16
Drink 2008-10
Pretty herbal, fine-grained tannins, again clearly Margaret River in its refreshing leafy style.
Harewood Estate Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Great Southern
15.5
Drink 2008-09
Green, leafy aromas, lots of fruit weight and the suggestion of some residual sugar. Solid but not special.
Harewood Estate Riesling 2006 Denmark
15.5
Drink 2009-11
A bit reduced on the nose (screwcap related?) then simple lolly and lime juice aromas. Extremely tart and austere on the palate. Maybe this will become more charming with time?
Harewood Estate Chardonnay 2004 Denmark
15
Drink 2007-09
More reduction aromas (stinky, vegy) before rather unsubtle aromas associated with malolactic fermentation.
Harewood Estate Shiraz/Cabernet 2005 Great Southern
14
Drink 2009
Hard and taut. Where’s the fruit?
Harewood Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Frankland River
16
Drink 2007-09
Naughty heavy bottle but complete, ripe fruit on the mid palate. This tastes sweet it’s so ripe. Very slightly syrupy but certainly friendly.
Harewood Estate Shiraz 2005 Great Southern
15.5
Drink 2007-09 Unexceptional but competent in relatively cool climate idiom.
Reproduced with permission. © Copyright 2000-2010 Jancis Robinson
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